A month of firsts...

When brainstorming about what I could write about in this month's blog, it dawned on me that February was a month of many 'firsts'. Obviously, living abroad provides a lot of new opportunities, but February seemed to be chalked full of them. This is probably due to numerous factors, most notably: the weather - February/March has the best weather of the year, which makes people more active; time of the year - it is a month after the holiday season and conferences and activity is ramping up; lastly, it was my 4month mark living abroad, so I'd learned my way around, met more people and begun to find opportunities to explore.

In February 2009, I experienced my first:

1. Birthday abroad - I celebrated my first birthday abroad, which my mom tells me officially means I'm an adult. Ironic then that I celebrated by flying my new remote control airplane around the office. To celebrate, I also went camping in the Empty Quarter, which was 'first' #2...




2. Camping trip in the desert - Before I came to Abu Dhabi, I would never have thought camping in the desert would be an 'enjoyable' activity. Growing up in Virginia, the idea of camping is to go to the Sky Line Drive for a day of hiking in the forest till you reach your final destination and set up camp. My favorite memories as a child are standing on top of the Blue Ridge Mountains overlooking the beautiful colors and landscape of Central Virginia. So it was to my surprise when I arrived in Abu Dhabi, and everyone is telling me how amazing camping in the desert's 'Empty Quarter is. I'll be the first to tell you I was skeptical.

But after peer pressure, I decided to give it a try....and let me tell you it didn't disappoint. Hiking is replaced with dune bashing, green is replaced with orange, trees are replaced with sand, being startled by a bear is replaced with being startled from going backwards down a dune, but the affect is as awe inspiring. We set up camp on top of a 300m tall dune with no sign of civilization in sight. It was so peaceful looking out into nothing - there are very few places in the world this still exists.

I also learned a very valuable lesson - never buy camping gear from Ace Hardware. Scrambling for gear, a friend and I bought the all-in-one special (think the quality of buying an all-in-one golf set for $199), and ended up with a chairs for 3 year old (his at cup holders mine didn't), different tents (again his was for a midget or 5 yr old) and the most uncomfortable sleeping bag in the world. Needless to say, I didn't sleep much that night.





3. Sandstorm - The uglier side of sand is in the form of sand storms. This is the desert version of a snow storm. Sand flying around at 20mph pelts you in the face, gets stuck in your clothes and hair, repaints your car brown and makes going outside extremely unpleasant. Fortunately, this only happens in the 'winter' about once every couple weeks. The pictures below were taken outside of my apartment. Keep in mind there were no clouds in the sky, the dark color comes from dense sand blowing around. Fun times!




4. Accident (mom please don't read this paragraph) - For those of you that have driven in the Middle East (or parts of Europe and South America), or have read my previous posts, know, better than most, the joys of driving in Abu Dhabi. It is very much like a video game, where people drive as fast and crazy as possible, abide by very few traffic rules, cops are non existent, and debris fills the roads. I rather enjoy it, but it can prove to be quite dangerous. Most accidents in the UAE are fatal (many occurring on the road between Abu Dhabi and Dubai), however in the inner city, its very much the 'rubbin is racing' model. In fact, it doesn't take long, before you become impressed (or surprised) that there aren't more accidents and fender benders. I had the fortunate pleasure of getting in my first fender bender (ever) this month.

It was a Thursday evening after work (beginning of the weekend here) and everyone was in a rush to get home after a long week. I'm driving down the major artery of Abu Dhabi Island, where the lane to my left merged into my lane. A guy driving a truck much bigger than mine, doesn't attempt to slow down to merge, but rather speeds up, and after realizing he isn't going to make it in front of me, just merges right into me. After giving me a little love tap on the side, I fortunately was able to merge into the next lane without getting rear ended by some other car driving twice the speed limit. After pulling out of harms way, he was very cool about it. We made small talk to the cops got to the scene. They spoke Arabic, I smiled, and in the end had no idea if the ticket said I was at fault or not. So I drove away with another ding in my rental car.

5. Arabic class - As part of the educational and cultural experience I decided to study Arabic. After a bit of research, I found The Mother Tongue Language Center. It is owned and taught by Syrians, who are said to speak the most pure and classic Arabic. This is an excellent way to learn because people from all different regions can understand you even though they don't speak that way (think speaking old style English). The class is a big time commitment: two hours a class, three times a week, six weeks per module - but if I was going to be serious about learning, it was the way to go. And after completing my first module, I'm very glad I did commit. What at first seemed an impossible task of learning a whole new alphabet, with completely different sounds and characters that changed depending on where they were in the word - I could now sound out any word, had a basic vocabulary, and, more importantly, was not longer intimidated. Arabic is not as difficult as it originally appears for three basic reasons: 1) Unlike English, Arabic has rules and sticks to them; 2) all words are phonetically spelled; 3) all characters have a distinct characteristic that despite where they are in the word is recognizable (there are a handful of exceptions). Vocabulary continues to be the biggest challenge, which is simply finding the time to study and memorize. Inshallah

6. Day of work on a remote island - Although we had to get up at 4am and drive 3 hours, being the safety and security advisers to a commercial tourist developer has its perks. We were conducting a site assessment and kick off meeting for a desert island safari. Didn't really get to enjoy the sites or amenities, but it was a first.


Taking pictures of suspicious characters.

Dinner with a boss on his own island - My boss moved to Abu Dhabi looking to live on a dhow and ended up living on his own island. The island is named Futasi and is owned by Sheik Hamad bin Hamdan "the Rainbow Sheik". The island could be the location to the spin off series of LOST. It is mostly a desolate island the size of Abu Dhabi Island, but as you drive around it you come across random things, including an algae farm, medieval castle, sand golf course, paintball course, 300 gazelles, and my favorite: 300m tall letters that can be seen from space.

Check it out the images below: Top left is a picture of the Abu Dhabi area, Futasi is located in the bottom right hand corner; the top left picture is an image of Futasi island, notice the name in the bottom right of the island; the image on the second row left is a close up of the letters carved into the island; the image to it's right is me standing at the connection of the 'H' and 'A'. The image on the third row is the medieval castle built for a Sheiks birthday party with the Abu Dhabi skyline in the distance.




Car Museum - The same guy who carved his name into an island also owns a car museum in the shape of a pyramid. This includes the largest truck in the world; it is a ford pick up 12x the size of the original, a mobile home four stories in the shape of a globe, 300+ exotic cars, and a 8 Mercedes each the color of a rainbow, interiors and all (thus how he was given the name 'the rainbow sheik'). Check out the website: http://www.enam.ae/

Foreign 15lbs - Very similar to the 'Freshmen 15,' this is thanks to long hours, lack of sleep, not working out and this incredible Syrian pastry shop below my building.

Wakeboarding - I'm quickly realizing that one of the best parts of Abu Dhabi is the water. With hundreds of islands surrounding the mainland, you can explore, go scuba diving, water sports, and picnic or camp on a tear drop island. As for wakeboarding....lets just say I was a little sore the next day.





NEXT UP: Visitors - the best part about living in a foreign country is sharing it with friends and family. March is going to be a busy month of visitors. KC is visiting for two weeks. It will be her second time to Abu Dhabi, first since I've been here. My parents are then visiting at the end of March for a week. And potentially my sister may visit in April on her way back from Ethiopia. Cant wait to see them. Who's next?


Ma Asalaama!

My Abu Dhabi Top 10 List

January has been business as usual in Abu Dhabi: Crazy Busy. So instead of posting about work, I decided to post my Abu Dhabi Top 10 List (i'm told this is a must for every blog). So here's a crack at the top 10 thigns I like and dont like about Abu Dhabi.

Top 10 things I LIKE about Abu Dhabi (in no particular order)....

1. Gas (aka "Petrol") is less than $1/gal - When I left the states last October it was $4+...granted I run my AC so much that it negates the the savings slightly.  Gotta love living in a Petrol-producing country.
   
2. Cheap Authentic Spicy Food - I grew up eating spicy food from 'Nani' my surggogate indian grandmother. 'Spicy' at your neightborhood restaruant in the states, pales in comparison to eating at 'Nassar's indian restaruant for $3. Where you leave full, mouth on fire, and a surprise for later (however, see #6 on 'DONT like' list).  Yumm
   
3. Cabs cost $1.50 to go anywhere in town - Cabs are silly cheap and plentiful. If you did a cost benefit on ONLY cabbing - it would come out far cheaper than owning a $15K car, plus petrol, plus insurance.  Needless to say, I dont miss the $50 cab rides from Adams Morgan to Arlington.
   
4. Stores open late - As many of you know, I am a night person. I love that the grocery stores, malls, general stores are open till midnight during the week. 
   
5. Everyone drives like maniacs - many would say this is a downside, as driving is the number one (and only real) threat in Abu Dhabi. However, once you adapt, and think of it is a video game...its a blast! (see unofficial driving rules from November entry)
6. Living in a foreign culture - Although globilization has 'flattened' the world and everywhere you go, you find KFC, and everyone speaks English -  each country still has very unique features and cultures. Abu Dhabi, much more than its neighbor Duabi, has maintained a level of culture and tradition that makes you feel like you're 'not in Kansas anymore'. I've also found studying the language makes a big difference in your overall experience, and interaction with locals. 
   
7. Gold Class Tickets - think first class of movie theaters:  Special enterance, waiting lounge, waiter service, full reclining chairs - I'm not convinced its the only way to watch a movie.
   
8. Ease of Traveling - the UAE's location, coupled with discounted flights, makes it very easy to travel. Within the UAE and Oman alone, you have some of the most beautiful and extreme enivorments. Within a 4hr flight radius you are into Asia, North Africa, Europe and the entire Middle East. I look forward to taking full advantage of this in 2009.
   
9. Running on the Corniche - The Abu Dhabi downtown Corniche (coastal road) is one of the most well manicured, designed, and beautiful areas in the UAE. Only a block from my apartment, there is nothing better than a run at dusk to clear the mind and admire the city.
   
10. No Routine - When you leave everything, everyone, everywhere you know - you are forced to develop many things from scratch. You dont have a routine, you dont have your friends to watch football with, your girlfriend to be with, you favorite bar to drink at. This is a very liberating feeling and what allows you to discover who you are, mostly because you feel what you miss most. (However, see negative aspects in 'DONT like' list)

Top 10 things I DON'T like about Abu Dhabi (in no particular order).....

1. Living away from my family, friends and KC - this is obviosly the most difficult part of moving 8K miles away. I am very forutnate to have an amazing family, awesome friends, and the best girlfriend in the world.  Look forward to having all of you out here to visit.
   
2. The local chains don't taste the same - I dont make a habit of eating at global chains, but there are days when all I want a Cosi Tomateo Basil Soup and Chicken Pesto sandwitch - and when its doesnt taste the same - it's a blower.
   
3. No HDTV - enough said. Especially when you buy a 46" Samsung 5 Series and surround sound. Thank goodness for Blu-ray.
   
4. No Garbage Disposals - Why would you need one when you have a maid. Of course those of us that dont - its a real pain!
   
5. "No Problem, its Ok" or "Inshallah" - Inshallah means 'God Willing', and more imporatntly, is one of the most over used terms. What translates into the American use of 'fate', it has grown to mean anything from 'see you tomorrow' - 'inshallah'; 'can I have a soda' - 'inshallah'; 'good luck in your soccer game' - 'inshallah'; 'my electricity isnt working, can you fix it' - 'inshallah'. This can lead to much frustration. Today in class I learned how to say 'no - necessary'
   
6. Light switches on outside of room and upside down - still causes confusion
   
7. No water in toilets - I understand how wasteful it is, but it makes toilets a lot more plesant (Dont even get me started on the bidet)
   
8. Football is on in the middle of the night - missed both the national championship and Super Bowl, which were on from about 4-7am.  Bummer
9. Very little organic food - I miss Whole Foods.  The organic food selection is very poor; fortunately they are looking to grow more food locally and bolstering their organic food selection.
   
10. No routine - the downside to having no routine is it is very tiring. Working too much, staying up late, not exercising, it wears on you.  With Arabic class and BJJ, I am finding balance.

To my three readers, I hope you enjoyed. Till next month.... Salam Alakum

Everyday Adventures

With Thanksgiving, UAE National Day (think July 4th), Eid Mubarak (quest for Mecca), and Winter Holiday, I thought December was going to be a quiet month. Hardly! I ended up working more, traveling more, and sleeping less and it was all worth it. We accomplished a record year at work, I traveled to amazing places around the region, and made most of the everyday adventures in Abu Dhabi.

I received my first visitor to Abu Dhabi. My dad came to visit right before Thanksgiving. Coincidently, he had scheduled a work meeting in Dubai long before my decision to move to the UAE and was able to come out a few days early to hangout. It was great to see a familiar face and an excuse to findly do all the tourist activities I had been putting off. We went to the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, which boasts the largest chandelier in the world; visited the Iranian and Gold Souks; and traveled to the the emirate of Furjarah on the east coast of the UAE. As amazing and new as it all was, I think he enjoyed his upgraded room at the Emirates Palace the most.

One of the more entertaining experiences was UAE National Day. On December 3 2008, the country turned 37, and the Emirate's enthusiasm and reckless abandon was clear evidence of how proud they are of what they've accomplished in such a short time. I would describe the celebration as a combination of July 4th, Mardi Gras, and Friday afternoon rush hour in DC. There was a spectacular fire work display lasting nearly 45 minutes; lights and decorations were throughout the city, covering buildings, cars; there were festivals and activities everywhere; and a majority of Emirates proceeded to go around in their spray-painted, decked out cars, equipped with noise makers - honking their horns, revving their engines...while sitting in deadlock traffic throughout the city. It was a site to be seen.

I experienced rain and wind for the first time while in Abu Dhabi. Unless you live in the desert for a few months, its hard to understand the significance of this. Because it rarely rains, they don't have a drainage system , causing all the streets flood. The entertaining part is watching people try and drive their cars through three feed of water - quickly discovering that there car couldn't make it. Who knew three feet of water would flood your engine. Earlier this year, when it rained, the Palm Dubai flooded, causing exotic cars to wash away to sea. I also experienced my first sandstorm, which was.......well let's just say I'm still cleaning the sand out of my shoes.

Driving in Abu Dhabi is probably the most thrilling and dangerous adventure of them all. Everyone drives like a madman, cops rarely give speeding tickets, and roundabouts are always exciting. There are four unofficial rules to driving in Abu Dhabi.

1. Drive as fast as you can - regardless of who is around you, how far the car is ahead of you, whether you can see the next light is red, or the speed limit is a third the speed you are driving
2. Never stay in the same lane for more than 20seconds - I guess for the change of scenary
3. DONT use your shifter when changing lanes - I know someone who failed a driving exam because he didnt follow this rule
4. Left Hand Turns. Two part rule: a) When making a left hand turn you must do it, not from the left lane, but from two or three to the right. b) when making a U-turn, you must be in the fourth lane from the left, cutting across five lanes of traffic to pull an illegal move.
5. 
   

Everyday provides a new adventure in Abu Dhabi.

A few out-of-town adventures:

Dubai Rugby Sevens
When making small talk with one of my South African co-workers during my first week in Abu Dhabi, I asked "what are you up to this month", to which they replied "nothing really, just getting ready for Dubai Rugby 7s". When making small talk with one of my Aussie co-workers, during my first week in Abu Dhabi, I asked "what trips do you have planned?", to which they replied "nah mate, just Rugby Sevens". When making small talk with one of my Kiwi co-workers during my first week in Abu Dhabi, I asked ...... you get the point. Dubai Rugby Sevens is the event that every expatriate (outside of Americans) looks forward to. It is a two day event at a stadium in the middle of the desert.

While I have to admit, I dont know much about Rugby, I quickly realized you don't need to in order to enjoy Rugby Sevens. Watching wasted South African's high-five, pass out, get in fights, and fist pump themselves retarded, is all the entertainment one really needs. Believe it or not, I did learn a bit about the Afrikaner language and Rugby. Rugby Sevens gets its name because there are only seven players on the field, compared to normal Rugby which is 15. This causes the game to be much faster, high paced, and high scoring, which I enjoyed. However most Rugby fans seemed to prefer the kind of Rugby where they huddle up and hold shoulders, while pushing each other around, because "it required more talent and strategy". Not sure if I agree, but who am I to argue...

South African Fans going crazy


The New Zealand All-Blacks warming up...


Madness


This is a 'Temporary Stadium' in Dubai




Dibba, Fujarah
While my dad was in town we went to the east coast of the UAE, where a small portion touches the Indian Ocean (aka Gulf of Oman). We drove from Abu Dhabi north to Dubai, then went east. Driving out of the city, you finally experience 'the desert' (Dubai and Abu Dhabi are very green and believe it or not you see very little sand while you're within the city). After driving through the desert for an hour you arrive at the base of these beautiful mountains that boast more colors than you can imagine on one mountain range. The mountains finally clear, and open up into a beautiful valley with the Indian Ocean in the distance. Located on the north Omani - UAE border, we finally arrived to the town of Dibba. In short, Dibba has a very Santa Barbara feel. Standing on the shore you can see all the tankers lined up to go into the Strait of Hormuz and into the Persian Gulf. At night the tankers light up the horizon, appearing like Christmas lights sitting on the ocean. Dibba is a hidden gem. I predict that as more people move and settle in Abu Dhabi and Dubai, Dibba will soon be discovered my the world.

Fisherman out in the early morning


Grand Mosque


Student Driver Car in Dibba - We saw about six of them in this small town, which I found extremely entertaining. Especially since I haven't seen one in Abu Dhabi or Dubai - and they obviously need it the most.


Along the Corniche at the Mirimar Hotel in Dibba




Muscat, Oman
I could easily write a whole blog entry about my experience in Oman, but given the interest of your time and attention span, ill try and hit the highlights.

Right before Eid, a co-worker and I decided last minute to make the short trip to Oman to see the country so many people described as a 'must go'. A country that has only allowed visitors for about a decade, it is not well known to most of the world, especially Americans. Oman has some of the most beautiful mountains and scenery this earth has to offer and is an adventure seeker's haven. They have some of the best snorkeling, scuba diving, hiking, biking, camping, trekking, caving, and off roading in the world.

We started our trip in Old Muscat and Mutrah. Old Muscat is built on the coast and is completely surrounded my mountains. The gates and old forts are the draw, but I found walking around the traditional village to be the real cultural experience. A thirty minute walk down the coast you come to Mutrah. Filled with cafe's, ships, and an amazing old Souk, Mutrah provided a cultural experience and great place to go Christmas shopping.

The next day we went on a desert safari which included camel riding, dune bashing, lunch with Bedouins, swimming in the Wadis, and a chance to talk to a young Omani about what it is really like to live in Oman. He told us about how little money goes to the citizens of Oman (esp vs UAE - Oman it is a more traditional dictatorship). It is a caste system that he is struggling to move up in. He explained how must receive a certain grade to go to University, which guarantees you a government job. He explained how in the government "you dont do anything but stamp things but you are paid very well". He struggled with the desire to do something he enjoyed and one which he could raise a family. He was saying how secretive their leaders is and how no one ever sees him in public. There is talk that he is dying and wondering who will take over. Our tour guide was only 22 years old, but already had more wisdom than I will have in a lifetime. It was unfortunate to see him struggle to find something better in a system that was holding him down.

Oman also provided some good laughs. On our last night we went to a Mexican Bar (b/c they had a margarita pitcher special) and watched an Indian Coverband play. These guys dreamt of being the next big boy band and sung passionately to everything from 'Like a Virgin' to 'Yellow'. Alan couldn't resist to express his thanks (I dont think they got the sarcasm).

I defiantly want to go back to Oman to camp in the desert, go caving in the second largest in the world, and drink margaritas at the Mexican Bar.

Should have listened when they told me to hold on


Digging ourselves out.


Got Camel?


Goats just chillin the cab of this truck


Mutrah - home to Oman's major port and beautiful Souks.


Me, our tour guide Masoud, and Alan



My next adventure.....

USA
I'm heading home for the holidays. Cant wait to go to the old U S of A for some much needed rest and relaxation. I wish you a reenergizing break and a Happy New Year.

Getting Settled

Since my first day in Abu Dhabi, six weeks ago, I have been going non-stop. I quickly realized the 15 hour workday I clocked upon my arrival was the norm rather than exception. I have found that not having a routine is both very liberating and equally exhausting. Between work, moving into an apartment, filling out paperwork and massive games of Halo, "getting settled" seems like a never ending saga, rather than the first chapter.

For context, a brief background on Abu Dhabi. Abu Dhabi is an island the size of Manhatten. It is the capital of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and one of seven emirates. It is 95% of the land mass and about 90% of the oil/gas revenue of the UAE. So while it currently isn't as built-up or well-known as its sister city, Dubai, it has a much stronger financial backing and a vision that is unparalleled to anywhere in the world. As country put on the map because of oil, they use it as an enabler not a crutch (unlike the US). Abu Dhabi is the first to have a city-wide green code; with the help of the MASDAR Institute (teamed with MIT) they will build a carbon free city for 50K+ population, and by the time they stop making money off oil, they will be the leader in green technology (the states need to recall the spirit from the space race). By 2030 Abu Dhabi will be the most livable, vibrant, cutting-edge city in the world. It will have the top universities (MASDAR, Paris-Sonbonne, NYU Abu Dhabi, MIT already have campuses here), the top clinics (the Cleveland clinic operates all hospitals here), the arts (Louvre, Guggenheim already being built), and tourist destinations (Saadiyat Island - museums, Gary Player golf course, marina, 6 star hotels; Yas Island - Formula 1 Racetrack). It will be the next Alexandria.

When the 2030 Plan was created it has 6 components, but was missing one critical element: safety and security. Good Harbor was brought into help develop that component. I have been working in the commercial development and urban planning piece. My team works to ensure these iconic structure include safety and security into the design and that it is coordinated with the rest of the city. My days are spend drafting memos, reports, tracking contract and BD opportunities and basically anything else you can imagine an associate among experts would have to do.

I finally moved into my apartment. It is a one-bedroom in an amazing location in town. Of course I splurged on an entertainment system (46" LCD HDTV and surround sound). The building is being renovated, so I am woken up by drilling at 7am (on the positive side, I didn't have to buy an alarm clock). It is def an adjustment living alone, but I work so much, I'm rarely here.

Abu Dhabi is a unique city. With 80% of the population expatriate, you find a lot of diversity. Everyone speaks English and all the signs post Arabic and English (after a while you stop noticing the 'beautiful borders'). The city is eerily safe from crime, but driving resembles a mission in Grand Theft Auto. The advantage of living in an oil bearing country is that gas is about $1.20 a gallon and there is no tax. Cabs cost $3 to get anywhere in town, and you can park your car anywhere you like (which is a bad thing when you get boxed in). There are three unofficial rules to driving in Abu Dhabi. First, you cant stay in a lane for more than 20seconds; second, you don't use you shifter when switching lanes, you just kind of lean over and roll in; and third, my personal favorite, you are not allowed to make a u-turn from the left most lane, but rather three lanes to the right, cutting across four lanes of traffic in the process.

Service in hotels and restaurants is incredible, while banks, phone companies and any other non-hospitality service can be crap. The favorite quote is 'in sha allah' (in the hands of God) aka it wont get done or 'its ok'/ 'no problem' which doesn't mean its getting fixed or corrected any time soon.

Everyone here was very interested in the US election, and particularly Obama. Even the cab drivers who speak very little English, would ask about Obama. Overnight, I could see a positive change in people's perception of the US. This is a good thing.

My favorite part of Abu Dhabi is the cheap Indian food, everything is open late and gold class seats (think first class movie theaters; full recliners, private lounge, waiter service); my least favorite is no HDTV, light switches are on the outside of rooms, and needless to say all of my family, friends, and KC are 8K miles away.

That concludes this entry. Check back sometime around the new year for the next one. I've attached some pictures below, in addition to those on facebook.

Han nii an!

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Abu Dhabi Island - yellow flag is location of my apartment

A closer look at my apartment's location












View from my balcony














Company Villa - this is where I work











A Dime a Dozen.......

Arrived in Abu Dhabi

I arrived in Abu Dhabi at 8am local time (12amEST) on Oct 8th, and my adventure began. I couldn't check into my hotel so I went right to work. After a few meetings, lunch, strategic session, answering emails, dinner, and talking to KC, my day is over at 11pm (gotta love a 15hr day after traveling for 24hrs). I plan to write blog entries once a month, so check back around the 8th of November for the next entry (its bound to be a long one).

Cheers,
Ethan